At the slaughter-house the head is split and the brain excerpted, leaving tongue and eyes in situ. The whole or half head is then boiled for two to three hours to ready it for table. The appearance of the face is important and an attractive expression desirable, so much so that a peaceful smile can double the price of the cut.

Varied life-courses arouse variety of taste: some favour the nose, others the ear, others yet the tongue and jowl, or perhaps 'the ladder' as we call that corrugated place, the palate, but who would dispute the eye-muscle as most toothsome of morsels?

At table, parents, sibs, and gentle visitors wrestle for this succulent thrum, which is extracted by finely slipping one's baby finger behind the eye and withdrawing the band of soft meat.

Frequently the head is eaten cold at tea-time, sliced and served with mustard as centre-piece of a classic old Meat Tea. Alternatively, it may be sliced and fried on the pan with lard or dripping. Truly, a dish to feed a king!